The Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual and L.U.C Lunar One: An Informative Overview

The Louis-Ulysse Chopard collection, known as the L.U.C collection, has solidified its position in the realm of high horology. With a commitment to vertical integration and meticulous in-house watchmaking, the L.U.C collection has earned its place alongside esteemed brands such as Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne. The collection’s latest additions, the Flying T Twin Perpetual and the updated Lunar One, represent significant advancements in design and craftsmanship, further reinforcing Chopard’s reputation for innovation and precision.

A Brief History of the L.U.C Collection

The L.U.C collection was launched in 1996, starting with the time-only caliber 1.96. This marked Chopard’s deliberate move to establish itself as a serious contender in the world of traditional watchmaking. Over the years, the collection has introduced several noteworthy models, including the L.U.C 1860, which garnered widespread acclaim at Watches & Wonders 2023. Chopard continues to retool the collection, introducing high-complication watches that are aspirational yet competitive in terms of craftsmanship and price.

Aesthetic Evolution

The newest models in the L.U.C collection reflect a shift in aesthetic direction. These changes include:

– Thinner Cases: The cases feature a curved “bassine” shape inspired by 19th-century pocket watches.

– Fluted Crowns: The crowns have been redesigned for a more refined appearance.

– Domed Sapphire Crystals: A subtle curvature enhances the overall elegance.

These design elements create a clear delineation from earlier L.U.C models and signal the brand’s future design strategy.

Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual

The Flying T Twin Perpetual is a milestone for Chopard, combining a flying tourbillon and perpetual calendar for the first time. These complications, though not new to the L.U.C range individually, come together in this model to offer a unique timepiece.

Key Features

– Case Dimensions: The case measures 40.5mm in diameter and 11.63mm in thickness. It is crafted from Fairmined ethical 18-carat yellow gold, reflecting Chopard’s commitment to sustainability.

– Dial Design: The hand-guilloché dial, finished in Forest Green via PVD treatment, features a sunburst pattern emanating from the flying tourbillon opening at 6 o’clock. The guilloché extends to the day-night indicator at 9 o’clock, with distinct patterns for day and night.

– Hands and Markers: Dauphine fusée hands and applied hour markers are crafted from yellow gold, complementing the dial’s intricate design.

Movement

The L.U.C caliber 96.36-L powers the Flying T Twin Perpetual. This COSC-certified movement is only 6mm thick and boasts the Geneva Seal hallmark. Key features include:

– Component Count: Comprising 319 components.

– Power Reserve: 65 hours, enabled by Chopard’s Twin technology with two stacked barrels.

– Heritage: The movement’s base construction is derived from the original caliber 1.96.

Pricing

The Flying T Twin Perpetual is priced at $184,000.

Chopard L.U.C Lunar One

The L.U.C Lunar One is a perpetual calendar model featuring an orbital moon phase complication. First introduced in 2005, the Lunar One has undergone two prior updates in 2012 and now in 2025.

Key Features

– Case Dimensions: The updated case measures 40.5mm in diameter and 11.63mm in thickness, smaller than the previous 43mm version.

– Dial Variants: Two versions are available:

  – Ethical white gold case with a salmon pink dial (Reference 161951-1002).

  – Ethical rose gold case with a deep blue dial (Reference 161951-5001).

– Orbital Moon Phase: The moon phase disc rotates around the sub-seconds dial, accurately displaying the moon’s phases for both hemispheres. Adorned with star formations such as the Big Dipper and Southern Cross, it offers astronomical precision accurate to within a single day over 122 years.

– Guilloché Patterns: The guilloché on the dial emanates from the moon phase indicator, mirroring the Flying T Twin Perpetual’s design approach.

Movement

The L.U.C caliber 96.13-L powers the Lunar One. Key details include:

– Component Count: Comprised of 355 components.

– Micro-Rotor: A solid gold micro-rotor keeps the movement thin.

– Power Reserve: 65 hours, facilitated by Twin technology with two stacked barrels.

Pricing

The Lunar One is priced starting at $85,800.

Design and Craftsmanship

Chopard’s latest releases highlight a renewed focus on refined case design and aesthetic details. The cases’ bassine shape, featuring a narrower base and a domed bezel, marks a departure from earlier models. Additionally, the lugs are now welded into the midcase rather than being integrated as a single piece. These subtle yet significant changes enhance the watches’ elegance and wearability.

Technical Excellence

Both the Flying T Twin Perpetual and Lunar One underscore Chopard’s technical prowess. The movements are not only COSC-certified but also bear the Geneva Seal, reflecting the highest standards of precision and finishing. The use of Twin technology ensures impressive power reserves, while micro-rotor designs keep the movements exceptionally thin.

Sustainability and Ethical Practices

Chopard’s commitment to sustainability is evident in its use of Fairmined ethical gold for both models. This practice aligns with the brand’s broader initiative to promote responsible sourcing and environmental stewardship.

Availability

Both the Flying T Twin Perpetual and Lunar One are part of Chopard’s most premium collection, making them exclusive offerings for discerning collectors. These watches represent a blend of technical mastery and aesthetic innovation, appealing to connoisseurs of fine watchmaking.

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