Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 – Now in Titanium

In 2024, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection welcomed a new addition: the Zulu Time 39 in titanium. This release continues the series’ tradition of creating high-quality, affordable GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) watches. With its durable and lightweight titanium case, the Zulu Time 39 in titanium maintains the collection’s hallmark features of wearability, design, and functionality, while introducing some significant updates and refinements.

The Evolution of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time series has built a reputation for offering exceptional travel watches. With models that provide both classic design cues and modern-day watchmaking expertise, the collection appeals to enthusiasts who desire reliable, versatile, and affordable timepieces. Introduced following the larger 42mm Zulu Time, the 39mm version delivers a smaller, more manageable size for a broader range of wrist sizes.

In this latest iteration, the Zulu Time 39 features a grade-5 titanium case, offering a lighter and more durable alternative to the previous stainless-steel models. Titanium, known for its strength and resistance to corrosion, also enhances the wearability of the watch by significantly reducing its weight. This makes the Zulu Time 39 ideal for long-term use, especially during travel or daily wear.

Case Design and Material Innovation

The Zulu Time 39’s titanium case is constructed from grade-5 titanium, a material praised for its resilience and versatility. The case measures 39mm in diameter and 13.2mm in thickness, with a lug-to-lug length of 46.7mm, making it well-proportioned for a wide variety of wrist sizes. The use of titanium reduces the watch’s overall weight to just 96 grams, enhancing comfort for extended wear.

The case design is predominantly brushed, with polished bevels that add a subtle contrast. Despite the minimalistic approach to finishing, the combination of polished and brushed surfaces adds visual depth and elevates the watch’s overall aesthetic. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the Zulu Time 39 is equipped to handle a variety of environments, making it suitable for both professional and recreational use.

The titanium bracelet accompanying the watch is also a standout feature, balancing durability with elegance. The bracelet tapers from 21mm at the lugs to 16mm at the clasp, giving it a sleek and refined look. Longines has incorporated a five-position micro-adjust system in the bracelet’s fold-over clasp, providing a range of adjustment options for the wearer. Additionally, the bracelet comes with Longines’ quick-release system, allowing for easy removal without the need for tools.

Dial and Bezel Features

The dial of the Zulu Time 39 is another highlight of the design. Its anthracite tone gives the watch a modern, industrial look, enhanced by the Super-LumiNova applied to the hands and Arabic numerals. The gilt-colored surrounds of the numerals add a touch of elegance, complementing the overall monochromatic scheme. The red-tipped GMT hand provides a pop of color, aiding legibility while maintaining the watch’s understated design language.

Positioned at six o’clock is the date window, a practical feature for everyday use. In this version, the date is printed in gilt-colored text, aligning it with the rest of the dial and adding to the sense of cohesion. This subtle enhancement differentiates it from the earlier stainless-steel models, which used white print for the date.

A standout feature of the Zulu Time 39 is its bi-directional ceramic bezel insert. The bezel itself is black, but it has been designed with two different finishes: half of the bezel is polished, and the other half is micro-blasted. This creates a unique visual effect that changes depending on the angle and light conditions. The white numerals on the bezel may contrast somewhat with the gilt accents on the dial, but this juxtaposition highlights the blend of modern and heritage design elements that define the Spirit Zulu Time collection.

Movement and Functionality

At the heart of the Zulu Time 39 is Longines’ automatic caliber L844.4. Based on the ETA movement, the L844.4 has been modified and upgraded by Longines to include several key features. The movement includes a local-jumping “flyer” GMT function, which allows the wearer to quickly adjust the hour hand to local time without stopping the movement—a highly practical function for frequent travelers.

The caliber L844.4 also comes equipped with a silicon balance spring, providing increased accuracy and resistance to magnetic fields. Certified by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), the movement ensures that the Zulu Time 39 meets the highest standards of Swiss chronometer precision. The L844.4 beats at 3.5 Hz and offers an impressive 72-hour power reserve, making it a reliable companion for long trips or periods without wear.

Despite the complexity of the movement, Longines has opted for a closed caseback, which is adorned with a series of engravings. While some might prefer an open caseback to view the movement, the closed caseback maintains the watch’s durability and water resistance, making it better suited for travel and active use.

Heritage and Historical Inspiration

The Spirit Zulu Time collection draws inspiration from Longines’ deep history in aviation and exploration. The name “Zulu Time” refers to the universal time standard—more commonly known as GMT—used by pilots, military personnel, and travelers to coordinate time across different time zones. This connection to aviation history is reinforced by the presence of the five stars on the dial, a design feature that Longines reserves for its most reliable and robust timepieces.

The origins of the Zulu Time name trace back to the 1920s, when Longines produced a rare square-shaped watch with a second hour hand to track “Zulu” (or GMT) time. Although the modern Zulu Time collection bears little resemblance to this early model, the connection to Longines’ pioneering spirit in watchmaking remains strong. The modern Spirit Zulu Time is a reflection of this heritage, combining vintage inspiration with contemporary watchmaking techniques.

Wearability and Comfort

One of the key selling points of the Zulu Time 39 is its wearability. Thanks to its titanium construction, the watch feels light and comfortable on the wrist. The 96-gram weight evokes the feel of vintage stainless-steel watches, which were known for their lightness and ease of wear. Modern stainless-steel watches, by contrast, can feel heavier and bulkier, especially when worn for extended periods.

The Zulu Time 39 in titanium offers a great alternative to heavier steel watches, particularly for those who value comfort without compromising on durability or style. The lightweight feel of the titanium case makes the watch suitable for daily wear, whether in formal or casual settings. Additionally, the balanced proportions of the case ensure that it sits comfortably on a variety of wrist sizes.

Comparison to Competitors

In a crowded market of GMT watches, the Longines Zulu Time 39 in titanium stands out for its combination of quality, design, and affordability. Priced at $4,275, it offers a strong value proposition compared to other Swiss-made GMT watches in the same price range. For instance, the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT in stainless steel, priced at $4,600, presents a direct competitor. While both watches offer robust GMT functionality, the Zulu Time 39’s titanium construction gives it a weight advantage, making it more comfortable for long-term wear.

The Zulu Time 39 also competes with other GMT options that offer similar features, such as tool-free micro-adjustments or quick-release bracelets. While the Zulu Time 39 lacks a tool-free micro-adjust system, its overall construction and ease of use more than make up for this. Moreover, the bi-directional ceramic bezel with its dual-finish design sets it apart from other GMT watches that often rely on color contrasts for differentiation.

Conclusion

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 in titanium is a compelling addition to the collection, offering an excellent balance of heritage, modern design, and practicality. With its lightweight titanium case, durable construction, and advanced movement, it is a versatile GMT watch that caters to travelers and watch enthusiasts alike. The thoughtful design details, such as the gilt-accented dial and unique ceramic bezel, demonstrate Longines’ commitment to quality and craftsmanship.

As the Spirit Zulu Time collection continues to evolve, the introduction of the titanium Zulu Time 39 showcases Longines’ ability to innovate while staying true to its heritage. For those in search of a reliable, well-made GMT watch at an accessible price, the Longines Zulu Time 39 in titanium is a worthy contender, offering a blend of style, functionality, and value.

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