Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075BH: A Heritage-Inspired Timepiece in Modern Form

As Breguet celebrates its 250th anniversary, the brand continues to reinforce its historical importance with a series of commemorative releases. One of the most significant among these is the Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075BH. This release marks a deliberate return to the brand’s mid-20th century aviation roots, honoring the original Type XX flyback chronographs designed for French military and civilian aviation use. The 2075BH is not simply a vintage reissue; it is a thoughtfully designed, mechanically refined, and historically respectful chronograph presented in Breguet’s exclusive gold alloy.

The 2075BH emerges in a context of revitalization for Breguet, as the brand seeks to align its future product direction more closely with its historical contributions to horology. Through refined sizing, manual winding mechanics, and dial configurations grounded in archival study, the 2075BH positions itself as both a collector’s piece and a signal of renewed brand focus.

Historical Background

The Type XX story began in the 1950s, when Breguet was commissioned to develop a flyback chronograph for the French Air Force and Navy. These watches were highly functional, durable, and designed with clear, legible dials and rotating bezels. While Breguet is best known for its pioneering work in tourbillons and pocket watches, the Type XX added a new dimension to the brand’s relevance—one that emphasized rugged, purpose-built instruments for aviation professionals.

In 2023, Breguet reintroduced the Type XX and Type 20 models in a modernized format. Although well-received in many respects, the inclusion of features such as a date window and larger sizing sparked debate among purists. These design choices, though commercially motivated, diverged from the watch’s original purpose and appearance.

The 2025 release of the Type XX Chronographe 2075BH realigns the model with its historical roots. Sized at 38.3 millimeters in diameter and manually wound, this model mirrors the proportions and mechanics of vintage aviation watches while integrating modern construction standards and precious metals.

Case and Construction

The Breguet Type XX 2075BH is crafted from Breguet gold, a proprietary alloy used by the brand to offer warmth, durability, and an elevated aesthetic. The case measures 38.3 millimeters in diameter and 13.2 millimeters in thickness, slightly thinner than the previous year’s automatic versions. The smaller case size enhances wearability and adheres to the vintage dimensions that defined the original Type XX models.

Design elements such as twisted lyre lugs, polished pump pushers, and a mixture of brushed and polished surfaces evoke traditional case-making techniques. These features create visual contrast and help manage light reflection. A sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating protects both the dial and the exhibition caseback, which reveals a uniquely decorated movement.

Approximately 53 grams of Breguet gold are used in the case. Despite the use of precious metal, the watch remains balanced on the wrist due to its compact design and relatively lightweight proportions.

Dial Variants and Features

Two dial variants are offered: a non-limited black dial and a limited-edition silver dial restricted to 250 pieces.

The black dial features matte anodized aluminum with luminous Arabic numerals and hands. The dial is devoid of extraneous complications, maintaining symmetry and clarity. A flyback chronograph seconds hand with a luminescent tip sweeps over a 15-minute chronograph subdial and a continuous seconds subdial. The vintage-style lume emits a green glow, consistent with mid-century specifications. Between 7 and 8 o’clock, a discreet engraving of “Al” denotes the use of aluminum for the dial.

The silver dial variant draws directly from archival records of a 1955 Type XX model originally delivered with a solid silver dial and tachymeter scale. This dial features vertical brushing, snailed subdial textures, a tachymeter ring, and applied indices. The Breguet logo is prominently raised at 12 o’clock, and the dial bears the inscription “retour en vol,” meaning flyback in French. Unlike the black version, the silver dial omits lume entirely, opting for a more formal and refined aesthetic. This version is limited to 250 pieces and is numbered accordingly.

Both dials use sword-style hands and avoid the inclusion of a date window, preserving the visual integrity and historical accuracy of the original Type XX layout.

Movement and Mechanics

At the heart of the Type XX 2075BH are two manually wound chronograph movements derived from the caliber 728 launched in 2023. The black dial houses caliber 7279, featuring a 15-minute chronograph counter, while the silver dial contains caliber 7278 with a 30-minute counter and tachymeter.

These movements operate at 5 hertz (36,000 vibrations per hour) and offer a power reserve of 60 hours. They use a flat silicon hairspring to ensure improved resistance to magnetic fields and temperature changes. Winding is smooth and efficient, with tactile feedback through the crown, and chronograph operation is crisp due to the column-wheel and vertical clutch mechanism.

The movements are largely hidden behind a ¾ plate that serves as the canvas for an engraved scene commemorating the 1930 transatlantic flight by Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte in a Breguet 19TR Super Bidon aircraft. The engraving depicts the aircraft’s route from Paris to New York along with the aircraft itself, which featured a question mark motif on its fuselage. The decorative approach favors narrative over traditional mechanical exhibition, which may appeal differently to various collectors.

Wearability and Aesthetics

The Type XX Chronographe 2075BH is designed for both collectors and enthusiasts seeking a wearable timepiece with historic resonance. The compact dimensions, ergonomic pushers, and clean dial designs offer versatile wear for formal and casual settings. The twisted lugs sit comfortably on the wrist, and the brushed surfaces resist scratching and smudging.

The absence of a date complication, along with the consistent dial geometry, makes the 2075BH visually balanced. Whether worn in the boardroom or on a weekend outing, the watch’s understated luxury and connection to Breguet’s aviation history offer a compelling narrative.

Each watch comes with a leather strap and is packaged in a special red leather presentation box designed to replicate Breguet’s historical Moroccan leather cases. The silver dial model bears a “PA” marking for Paris, while the black dial features a “NY” marking for New York.

Strategic Significance

The release of the Type XX Chronographe 2075BH aligns with a broader transformation underway at Breguet. The recent appointment of Gregory Kissling as CEO has brought a renewed focus on heritage, product quality, and design discipline. Formerly a key figure at Omega, Kissling brings technical expertise and brand management experience. His direction emphasizes long-term brand value over short-term commercial trends.

The move to release a manually wound chronograph with traditional sizing and no date display marks a clear shift from the more commercially conservative choices made in 2023. Rather than attempting to balance multiple design eras in a single reference, the 2075BH is narrowly focused and historically grounded. This suggests a strategic emphasis on credibility among collectors, historians, and connoisseurs of fine watchmaking.

Pricing and Market Position

The Type XX 2075BH is priced at 36,500 Swiss francs for the black dial version and 38,000 Swiss francs for the silver dial version. These prices place the watch at a premium relative to the 2023 steel Type XX models, which launched at approximately half the price. However, the use of precious metal, limited-edition packaging, and manual-winding mechanics justify the higher positioning.

Although the price may limit accessibility for some enthusiasts, it reinforces Breguet’s position in the high-luxury segment. The limited-edition nature of the silver dial variant is expected to attract collectors, particularly those focused on historically significant chronographs.

There is ongoing speculation about future steel versions in the same form factor. Early indications from leadership suggest that more accessible variants may follow, maintaining the same design language while expanding the offering to a wider audience.

Conclusion

The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075BH represents a thoughtful recalibration of one of the brand’s most iconic models. It delivers a faithful reimagining of the original Type XX, not through nostalgia alone, but by integrating archival research, refined craftsmanship, and modern engineering. The return to 38mm sizing, manual winding, flyback functionality, and historically informed dial configurations marks a significant advancement for the brand.

This model not only celebrates Breguet’s 250th anniversary but also signals a renewed commitment to heritage-based product development. The result is a chronograph that embodies the functional spirit of its aviation roots while meeting the expectations of contemporary collectors.

Whether evaluating its technical composition, historical fidelity, or role within the evolving Breguet catalogue, the Type XX Chronographe 2075BH stands as a defining release in the brand’s modern history.

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