
In celebration of the 25th anniversary and revival of one of Cartier’s notable modern releases, it’s insightful to explore the origins of this remarkable timepiece.
The Tortue Legacy
This year, Cartier’s collection features a significant highlight: the new set of Tortue watches, the centerpiece of the Cartier Privรฉ release at Watches & Wonders. While there were other notable releases, the Tortue series stood out prominently. The original 1929 Platinum Cartier Tortue Monopusher chronograph, in particular, has a rich history worth revisiting.
Historical Significance
The original 1929 Platinum Cartier Tortue Monopusher is an exceptionally rare watch, with only one platinum piece known to exist. There are eight known Cartier Monopusher chronographs from this era, with seven crafted in yellow gold and one in platinum. This unique watch was once part of the “White Cartier” collection, previously owned by Giorgio Serganoli, a well-known collector.
Provenance and Unique Features
Auro Montanari, also known as John Goldberger, acquired this watch after it was sold at a Sotheby’s Geneva auction. The watch’s history is fascinating, having been owned by a woman in Milan and later linked to an important Fascist minister in Italy during the 1920s and 1930s. Recently, Cartier confirmed it as a unique piece, the only one in platinum, adding to its allure.
Technical Aspects
The watch is powered by a European Watch Co. (EWC) movement, known for its intricate assembly of bridges and levers. Despite its age, the watch remains functional, with the minute counter moving incrementally rather than jumping. The dial, though in rough condition, is a testament to the craftsmanship of the 1920s. It also features a blue, faceted crown, unlike current platinum models that have a ruby cabochon.
Conclusion
The 1929 Platinum Cartier Tortue Monopusher chronograph is a remarkable piece of horological history, showcasing Cartier’s exceptional craftsmanship and intriguing provenance. Its unique status and historical connections make it a fascinating subject for collectors and enthusiasts alike.

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