The Patek Philippe Cubitus In 40mm: A Contemporary Evolution in Watch Design

Patek Philippe, the prestigious Swiss watchmaker, is renowned for its high standards of craftsmanship, producing some of the finest timepieces in the world. The brand’s reputation is built on the legacy of models like the ref. 1518, 1526, 2523, and 2499, which have become benchmarks in the world of horology. However, in the eyes of the broader public, Patek Philippe is often most associated with one particular model: the Nautilus. This iconic steel sports watch has achieved a level of cultural ubiquity rarely seen in the watch industry, transcending its status as a mere timepiece to become a symbol of luxury and exclusivity.

The Nautilus, with its distinctive porthole-shaped case, has attracted a diverse following. From cryptocurrency moguls and tech founders to athletes, artists, and global elites, the watch has become a cultural signifier for those who move quickly, spend generously, and seek to project success. Despite its immense popularity, the brand’s decision to discontinue the highly coveted steel 5711 Nautilus in 2022 raised questions about how a luxury brand like Patek Philippe can continue its commercial success while maintaining the exclusivity that fuels the desirability of such models. The answer, in part, seems to lie in the introduction of new designs that both resonate with the existing fanbase and appeal to the next generation of watch enthusiasts.

The Introduction of the Cubitus Collection

In late 2023, Patek Philippe introduced the Cubitus collection, marking the brand’s first new watch line in 25 years. This new collection, consisting of three references, created significant buzz within the horological community. The Cubitus line is, in many ways, a spiritual successor to the Nautilus, featuring a similarly sporty aesthetic while introducing a distinct square case shape that differentiates it from its predecessor. The models introduced included the 5821/1A-001 in stainless steel with an olive green sunburst dial, the 5821/1AR-001 in a combination of steel and rose gold with a blue sunburst dial, and the 5822P-001 in platinum, featuring added complications like a grand date, day display, and moon phase, powered by the ultra-thin Caliber 240.

The Cubitus’ introduction caused an immediate stir. Some collectors and enthusiasts were quick to voice their opinions, both for and against the design. Critics expressed disappointment at what they saw as a design that closely resembled the Nautilus, while others appreciated the bold new direction. Over time, however, the initial wave of criticism subsided, and the demand for the Cubitus grew. The emotional reactions that accompanied its release exemplified how passionate the watch community can be when it comes to new releases, especially when they involve a brand as storied as Patek Philippe. As with many other watch releases, initial opinions can be polarized, and it is not uncommon for a model to gain popularity after its initial reception.

The 40mm Cubitus Models: Ref. 7128/1R and Ref. 7128/1G

At Watches and Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe introduced two new 40mm time-only models in the Cubitus line. These models, the ref. 7128/1R in rose gold with a brown dial and the ref. 7128/1G in white gold, were designed to appeal to those who found the original 45mm case size too large. The smaller 40mm case was reminiscent of the highly regarded ref. 3800, a model beloved by vintage watch collectors. This new size marked a more accessible option for a wider range of wrists, particularly for those who prefer a more moderate case size.

The 40mm Cubitus models were widely anticipated by enthusiasts, and for many, they represented a more wearable and comfortable alternative to the original 45mm versions. While larger watches have become increasingly popular in recent years, the 40mm size remains the sweet spot for many collectors, offering a balance of presence and wearability. The 7128 models showcased a harmonious blend of bold design and refined execution, with the warm tones of the brown dial pairing beautifully with the rose gold case. The white gold model, with its cooler tones, offered a different but equally appealing aesthetic.

Technical Specifications: The Movement and Caseback

Both the 7128/1R and 7128/1G are powered by the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S C/434. This movement, visible through the square sapphire caseback, is finished with a rotor engraved in the same horizontal pattern as the dial, providing a sense of continuity between the movement and the watch’s visual design. The Caliber 26-330 S C is known for its accuracy and reliability, featuring hacking seconds and a date display. The movement is an essential part of the overall package, and its quality is in keeping with the high standards expected of a Patek Philippe timepiece.

The casebacks of both models are square, offering a unique visual experience compared to the traditional round casebacks that are common in most watches. This square caseback is a direct reflection of the Cubitus’ design philosophy, with the sharp, geometric lines extending to every aspect of the watch. The inclusion of a sapphire caseback is also notable, as it allows wearers to appreciate the craftsmanship of the movement.

The Nautilus Bracelet: A Seamless Continuation

One of the standout features of the Cubitus collection is the bracelet. Patek Philippe has wisely chosen to retain the iconic Nautilus bracelet, widely regarded as one of the most comfortable and well-designed in the watch industry. The bracelet’s fluid articulation, balanced weight, and luxurious finish make it a perfect match for the Cubitus case, ensuring that the watch is not only visually striking but also incredibly comfortable to wear.

The decision to keep the Nautilus bracelet unchanged is a testament to Patek Philippe’s confidence in its design. The bracelet has long been a point of admiration among collectors and enthusiasts, and its inclusion in the Cubitus line serves as a reminder of the brand’s commitment to maintaining the highest standards of craftsmanship and design excellence. The integration of this bracelet with the square case of the Cubitus is an interesting contrast, highlighting Patek Philippe’s ability to blend modern and classic elements seamlessly.

Price and Positioning

The retail price of the 7128/1R and 7128/1G is set at $76,590, positioning the Cubitus within the high-luxury segment of the market. The price reflects the quality of materials used in the construction of the watch, as well as the expertise involved in its design and manufacturing. The rose gold 7128/1R and white gold 7128/1G are luxury pieces, offering a combination of elegance, durability, and cutting-edge watchmaking technology.

The Cubitus collection has been positioned by Patek Philippe as a way to appeal to a new generation of watch collectors, while also providing a fresh take on the brand’s legacy. The collection’s design draws from the past while incorporating modern elements, creating a piece that is both timeless and contemporary. Whether or not it can replicate the success of the Nautilus remains to be seen, but the Cubitus undoubtedly represents a bold step forward for Patek Philippe.

The Legacy of Patek Philippe: A Reset for the Future

The introduction of the Cubitus is part of Patek Philippe’s broader strategy to evolve its design language while maintaining the core principles that have made it one of the most respected names in horology. The Cubitus is a significant step away from the brand’s traditional round cases, embracing a more angular and unconventional form. While some may see this as a departure from the brand’s roots, it is important to recognize that Patek Philippe has a long history of experimentation with case shapes, from the tonneau-shaped ref. 5020 to the more obscure ref. 5035.

The Cubitus fits into this lineage of Patek Philippe models that deviate from classical round forms. It represents a continuation of the brand’s more experimental side, and its release signals that Patek Philippe is not afraid to push boundaries while remaining true to its legacy of fine watchmaking. The Cubitus also reflects the current landscape of the watch market, where consumers are increasingly drawn to sporty, versatile timepieces that can seamlessly transition from formal to casual settings.

The Future of Luxury Watches: Nostalgia and Evolution

The Cubitus collection is a reflection of the current state of the watch industry, where nostalgia and innovation often go hand in hand. Many of the most sought-after designs in the luxury watch market are influenced by the aesthetics of the 1970s, a decade known for its bold, geometric shapes and experimental designs. Watches like the Nautilus and the Royal Oak have become icons, and their influence can be seen in the design of modern sports watches.

At the same time, the Cubitus represents a forward-looking design that embraces contemporary tastes while acknowledging the influence of past models. It serves as a reminder that the watch industry is constantly evolving, with design trends often cycling back into prominence after years of dormancy. The Cubitus is part of a broader movement in the luxury watch market that seeks to combine the best of both worlds: a respect for tradition and an openness to innovation.

As Patek Philippe celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus in the coming years, it will be interesting to see how the Cubitus fits into the brand’s broader narrative. Is it the final iteration of the Gérald Genta–influenced design language, or is it merely a stepping stone towards a new era in luxury watchmaking? Only time will tell, but for now, the Cubitus serves as a bold and exciting addition to the Patek Philippe collection.

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